Brute force - 15 plate Booster

If you’re looking for maximum brute force production, for example in a truck, it has been suggested by Bob Boyce that you use a double 7 cell booster with 15 plates. Connect negative to the center plate and positive to both ends. Normally Bob does not recommend this configuration due to slightly conflicting magnetic effects, but it will allow for higher hydroxy gas production than a single 7 cell unit. Conflicting magnetic is not as much an issue with low voltage boosters as they are with higher voltage systems.

The absolute best and most efficient way to control current in most booster installations is to run the electrolyte at full concentration, and use an adjustable current regulator to set the desired output level. This means it will stay rock-solid at that current and hydroxy gas output level.

You may even be able to connect some current regulator installations to a throttle position sensor which can vary the hydroxy gas output according to instant engine demand. You would not want to try adding too many cells to a booster, as the more cells there are, the more voltage is required for the cell stack. As per cell voltage decreases, efficiency increases, but at a loss of current and hydroxy gas production per cell. Cell warm up takes longer. This may be ok for some installations, but for a big rig you would want to have good hydroxy gas production right away without having to wait for the cells to warm up.
Using +——_——+ setup. 6×12″ plates laying on there side 6″high,12″long. He made the box out of Azek PVC material like you used on your ev car. 1″ thick. 18′ 1×8 was $80. He tried first on the first design to cut grooves for the plates but had to much current leakage. He was in the local AutoZone store buying parts one day and stumbled on to a clear vinyl auto door protector edging. $3.00 for 2 6″ pieces. He bought a couple while there. They fit the edges of the 16 ga. stainless perfect and make a tight seal. After edging all 15 plates I stacked them in the box (very snug fit). He then pressed them together on a row. The distance between plates ended up exactly 1/8″ apart. Then clamped and glued blocks of Azek to keep them tightly in place. This left about 1 1/2 on each side foe extra water. He filled one side with water to check for tightness. It took about 5 min for water to just start seeping to other side thru the plates. I felt that was good enough for a brute force box. The lid is also Azek 1″ thick with a 1/2 barb for a gas outlet. The end plate and center plate have a tab above the cells where I used 1/4 stainless all thread rod to pass through the side of the box for electrical connections. The total box size is 14″ long 9″ high 8″ deep (about the size of a car battery).

He used two stainless screws through the side of the box at the level that he wanted to maintain the water level. He then hooked a relay to a wind shield washer pump to a separate water tank/bubbler for auto refill. The bubbler/res. tank was a 3 gallon marine gas tank. It fit perfect on the step box of the big rig. When full of water it leaves a very small area at the top of the tank for the gas outlet.

He further states he has tested the Azek to 180 degrees f. with no problems. One morning cold amp draw was 7.5 amps after 6 hours was at 10.9 amps. He has yet to report further but states he will check again at the end of the 10 hour run. If still at 10 amps and he may add a little more lye to get it to 14 amps. 14-15 seems to be best run temp for max production. He used use 1″ angle metal to make a frame for top and bottom of the box, welded two 5/16 tubes on front and back of frames than I ran 1/4 bolts thru to clamp the lid down on the gasket.

The box is made from a material can Azek. Can be purchased from lumber stores, Its actually a type of PVC plastic that comes in many sizes and thickness. This one is 1″ thick 7 1/4 wide materials. Very easy to work with They have a special glue and screws for it. The glue melts the material together. I had the 316l stainless plates sheared at a metal shop 6×12″. This is an innovation by using simple to craft Azek for the housing and off the shelf gasket material instead of precise machined slots to hold the plates. This is a very easy to duplicate that most anyone with basic skills can assemble. Jeff’s work coupled with Bob’s advice has produced a next generation brute force series cell.

Jeff states the cell draws just under 3lpm at 15 amps. Starts out cold at 7 amps after 12hours run just under 15 amps. Two days to assemble. 1day to build box and let glue dry. 1 day to do plates.

This engineer states he is hoping to get couple a 2 mile per gal gain which would be a 30-40% increase. If It does the next project will be to build the 61 plate like engineer Larry’s (check the hydroxyl forums for this user name) to try for 100% increase close to what he got in the small box truck.

Original testimony: I had a 90% increase with a small diesel box truck (3lpm) I Just installed my second one on a Peter built rig yesterday, it took it’s first 10 hour run today and I should have the results by Tuesday. The driver did call me the afternoon and told me at the start it was drawing 7 amps and after 5 hours was at 10 amps. The cell was made after Bob’s recommendations.